Refinancing a rental can do two very different things: lower your payment, or pull out equity you've built so you can buy the next property. Done at the right time, a cash-out refinance is one of the most powerful moves in real estate. Done at the wrong time, it trades a good loan for a worse one and shrinks your cash flow for nothing.
Here's how to tell the difference — with real numbers.
Two kinds of refinance
- Rate-and-term refinance: replace your loan with a new one at a lower rate or different term. The goal is a smaller payment or faster payoff. You don't take cash out.
- Cash-out refinance: take a new, larger loan and keep the difference as cash. The goal is to turn equity into a down payment on the next property — the engine behind the refi-and-reinvest strategy (and the BRRRR method).
When a rate-and-term refinance makes sense
It's a break-even calculation. Divide your closing costs by your monthly savings to see how many months it takes to come out ahead.
Example: on a $200,000 balance, dropping from 7.5% to 6.5% saves about $134 a month in principal and interest. If closing costs are around $5,000, you break even in about 37 months. If you plan to hold the property longer than three years, it's worth it; if you might sell sooner, probably not.
When a cash-out refinance makes sense
A cash-out refinance makes sense when three things are true at once:
- You have enough equity. Conventional lenders generally cap a cash-out refinance on an investment property at 75% loan-to-value for a single-unit and 70% for 2–4 units. That means you need to own more than 25–30% of the property before there's any cash to pull out.
- You've owned it long enough. Fannie Mae's guidelines require at least one borrower to have been on title for six months, and an existing first mortgage being paid off to be at least 12 months old. Many lenders add their own requirements on top.
- You have a plan for the cash. The money only earns its keep if it becomes a down payment on another property (or pays off something more expensive). Cash sitting in a bank account while you pay a higher mortgage rate is a loss.
Lenders typically also want stronger credit for investment-property cash-out loans and several months of cash reserves, and the cash you receive at closing usually doesn't count toward those reserves.
A cash-out refinance, run through the numbers
Take a condo worth $110,000 with $48,000 left on a 5.5% mortgage (payment: about $273 a month). You own 56% of it — well past the line.
| Step | How it's figured | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Maximum new loan | 75% × $110,000 | $82,500 |
| Pay off old loan | Existing balance | −$48,000 |
| Closing costs | ~3% of new loan | −$2,475 |
| Cash in hand | $32,025 | |
| New payment | $82,500 at 7.25%, 30 years | $563/mo |
| Change in this property's cash flow | $563 − $273 | −$290/mo |
On its own, that looks like a bad trade: you just gave up $290 a month. Now put the $32,025 to work as a 25% down payment on a $128,000 property renting for $1,280 — a deal that meets the 1% rule. Those are hard to find today, but it keeps the math simple; at a more typical 0.8% rent-to-price, the new property would roughly break even. After its mortgage, taxes, insurance, and reserves, it nets about $212 a month.
Net result on day one: about $78 a month less cash flow than before the refinance. But you now own two properties worth about $238,000 instead of one worth $110,000 — two properties appreciating, two tenants paying down loans, and two sources of equity for the next refinance. That's the trade: a small dip in cash flow today for a much larger, faster-compounding portfolio. It's exactly the dip you can see in the worked example on our homepage.
When not to refinance
- Your current rate is far below today's rates and you don't need the cash. A low fixed rate is a valuable asset. Don't give it up without a clear use for the money.
- The new payment would wipe out the property's cash flow. Check that rent still covers the new payment and every expense with room to spare. Negative cash flow across several properties is how portfolios get into trouble.
- You'd have no reserves left. If the cash goes straight into a down payment and you have nothing set aside for vacancies or repairs, one bad month can cascade.
- You plan to sell soon. Closing costs on a refinance you'll only hold for a year or two rarely pay off.
How to model it before you call a lender
The hard part isn't one refinance — it's seeing how a series of them plays out across your whole portfolio over 10 or 20 years: which property is ready first, how much each frees up, what happens to cash flow, and when the reinvested equity actually starts paying off. The Ledger flags each property as it crosses the ownership line you set and models the refinance and the next purchase automatically. By default it keeps 25% equity in each property after a refinance — a 75% loan, matching conventional limits on single-unit rentals. For 2–4 unit properties, set it to 30%.
Frequently asked questions
How much equity do I need to do a cash-out refinance on a rental?
With conventional loans, more than 25% on a single-unit property or 30% on a 2–4 unit property — and realistically quite a bit more, since you'll only receive the amount above those limits, minus closing costs.
Is cash from a refinance taxable?
Generally no — it's borrowed money, not income. How you use it can affect what interest you can deduct, so check with a tax professional.
What's a DSCR loan, and how is it different?
A DSCR (debt service coverage ratio) loan qualifies you based on the property's rent covering its payment rather than your personal income. They're popular with investors who own many properties, but usually carry higher rates and fees than conventional loans.
How often can I refinance a rental property?
There's no legal limit, but seasoning rules (like the six-month and 12-month requirements above), closing costs, and lender overlays make refinancing the same property more than every year or two rarely worthwhile.
See this play out with your own numbers.
The Ledger models refinancing, reinvestment, and depreciation together across a real 30-year projection — not a rule of thumb.
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